A Japanese garden is not an arrangement of plants but a composed landscape built to be read in sequence — moss, stone, water and borrowed distance set out so the view resolves differently every few steps, and differently again each season.
Kyoto holds the densest concentration of them anywhere, most attached to Zen temples founded between the thirteenth and seventeenth centuries, and most now requiring a reservation weeks ahead.
This article visits five. Saiho-ji, the moss temple, whose moss was never designed at all — centuries of flooding and a lack of maintenance funds let more than 120 species colonise what had been a white-sand garden. Ruriko-in, where autumn maples reflect off polished floors. Tofuku-ji, founded in 1236, whose north garden sets a moss-and-stone checkerboard against azaleas read as the Milky Way. Zuiho-in, raked into rough waves around standing stones. And Katsura-Rikyu.
I grew up in Kyoto. These are the gardens I go back to, and the reasons they work are the reasons I lay out a London garden the way I do.
1. Saiho-Ji
Dating back 1,300 years, Saiho-ji, affectionately called the ‘Moss Temple,’ served as a design inspiration for samurais crafting future marvels like Kinkaku-ji and Ginkaku-ji. The master landscape gardener curated a heavenly realm with meticulously chosen rocks and a diverse assembly of 120 moss species. Mindful of moss’s vulnerability to climate change, two dedicated gardeners work tirelessly, ensuring the garden thrives for another millennium.
2. Ruriko-In
Nestled in the Yase valley at the foot of Mt. Hiei, Ruriko-in is renowned for its panoramic view, featuring lush maple leaves casting reflections on its polished interiors. The main garden, inspired by the Pure Land, bathes in an ethereal azure hue. A few times each year, morning dews on moss carpets catch the sun’s rays, illuminating the scene in the color Ruri—Japanese for Lapis Lazuli.
3. Tofuku-Ji
As one of Kyoto’s Five Great Zen temples, Tofuku-ji, established in 1236, boasts myriad sub-temples, each concealing enchanting gardens. My personal favorite is the north garden of Hojo. Its charming blend of moss and square checks gracefully transitions into a backdrop of azalea bushes. Double rows of bushes, resembling the Milky Way, stand against a checkered design mirroring the Plough star constellation.
4. Zuiho-In (Daitoku-ji)
Renowned for Karesansui (枯山水), or stone gardens, Zuiho-in features vertical stones surrounded by stones, symbolizing resilient islands amid turbulent seas. The unique raking pattern evokes the essence of rough waves. Observing this garden from the temple invites a meditative state.
5. Katsura Rikyu
Concluding with a personal favorite, Katsura-Rikyu (Katsura Imperial Villa) . While not celebrated solely for its gardens, this site, explored in a dedicated article, continually astonishes. It’s a testament to imperial families and aristocrats channelling their wealth to craft havens for nature appreciation—an epitome of ultimate luxury.